Sew Over It – Sorrento Jacket

So it appears I’m no longer blogger my makes in order! My Sorrento jacket is my most recent make but I’ve still got a huge list of things I’ve made in 2020 that I have yet to share! I’m just blogging about whichever make I fancy!

From Sew Over It’s website

The Sorrento jacket is one of the items in Sew Over It’s latest ebook – Summer Dreaming. It is part of their capsule wardrobe collections, all based on a summer capsule wardrobe and it is gorgeous. I think it’s my favourite yet! I like everything in it! The clothes are beautiful and the photos were taken in India so it’s an absolutely stunning book.

There are five projects in the book, most of which have variations. They are; the Alba skirt, the Ravello Dress, the Porto jumpsuit, the Siena dress and the Sorrento jacket. I was originally planning on starting with the Alba skirt but then I was inspired by Liz who’s The Baker that Sews on Instagram. She made a pastel Sorrento jacket and that was it! I needed one in my life! I jumped straight in at the deep end and started with the trickiest project in the book.

The Sorrento jacket is a slightly cropped denim jacket that has all the features you’d expect. Lots of topstitching, cuff details, tabs at the back and front pockets to name just a few. To be honest, I was worried it would be a step too far for me, especially with all the topstitching involved! I’ve never made such an involved project before and was worried it would all end in disaster! However, the instructions are really clear and thorough. There’s something like 102 steps, which may seem daunting, but shows the level of detail provided.

The first step is to cut out all the pieces. There are a lot! There’s about 15 different pattern pieces but most of them are quite small. I think the biggest piece is the sleeve. I pieced the PDF together myself as there wasn’t too many pages and it was actually quite easy to cut out as most pieces are within the width of A4 paper. I stuck each page of A4 into it’s row but then cut most pieces out of the row, rather than sticking the rows together to create a massive piece of paper. There was only a couple of pattern pieces that I needed to join to the next row. As my denim was quite thick (11oz) I used some scraps of cotton fabric from the pocket facing. The pattern does recommend doing this.

My practise version

The pattern recommends non-stretch denim and states that the samples shown in the book were using 11oz denim. It’s surprisingly hard to find non-stretch denim, especially that weight but I did find some. I bought some from Sew Me Sunshine and it was a blue reversible denim. When it arrived, I didn’t like the shade of blue it was so I decided to use it as a practise. I made it up in a size 18 but didn’t bother with buttons and buttonholes. I topstitched in the same thread as I sewed it. It was good to practise making it first and practise the topstitching.

For my ‘real’ Sorrento jacket, I used some khaki denim from Sew Over It. (It’s now in the sale!). Even though they don’t really sell fabrics anymore, they often stock fabrics that are suitable for their latest patterns. Worth having a look if you are making a new Sew Over It pattern.

One of the great things about the Sorrento Jacket, is that it takes shape really quickly. Although there are lots of pieces, the body of the jacket comes together quite fast. The instructions are ordered so you can sew as much as possible before topstitching to minimise the need to switch threads. Alternatively, you can have two machines set up; one for seams and the other for topstitching, if you have two machines.

I found the instructions to be really clear and easy to follow. The only part I struggled with was the sleeve binding. By the time I made my real version, it was better, but still far from perfect. If I make it again, I might try using a cotton fabric or bias binding so it’s less bulky.

Overall, I’m really pleased with how the jacket has turned out. It’s probably the most involved make I’ve made to date. It has all the features of a traditional denim jacket; three part front, yoke, collar, tabs, plackets, waistband etc. It took me about 3 days to make each version but it was worth the effort and time it took. I’m very proud of my jacket and love being able to tell people that I made it!

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