Pona Jacket – Helen’s Closet

As we are about a quarter of the way through the year, I thought I had better start blogging my makes from 2020.

My first completed make was the Pona Jacket by Helen’s Closet. I wanted to make this as soon as the pattern was released. I love a blazer and thought this would be a great introduction! I’ve started the Mimi G for Simplicity blazer but I was maybe a bit ambitious with it so this would be an easier version. The Pona Jacket is also one of two specific patterns on my Make Nine for this year, so I’m extra pleased to complete it.

pona jacket fabric

The fabric I chose was a lovely Abraham Moon wool which I got from Fabric Godmother. Its a brown colour but has multi coloured flecks in it. It’s probably a medium weight wool and on the heavier side of the recommended fabrics for the pattern but I wanted it to be more like a coat than a light weight jacket. I think I bought 2.5m but had some left over.

I couldn’t decide what size to make initially, as my measurements fell into a couple of sizes. The instructions said to use your high bust measurement as a guide. The jacket is supposed to be quite loose fitting so fit should be easy, however, I made a 16 based on this and it’s massive! Like really massive. I should have sized down at least 1 size, maybe even two, but at least I can wear a big jumper underneath it. I made the longer length version.

Pona 10

The construction was straight forward and Helen’s instructions were clear and easy to follow. Throughout, she includes lots of extra tips and tricks to help, especially if you are a beginner. It’s definitely worth having a read of these as I learnt a couple of tricks to make it simpler. Also, as I wanted this jacket to be to a good standard and the fabric was expensive, I took my time and basted quite a few of the seams before sewing. There were a few instances where if I had sewn a seam without basting, it wouldn’t have laid flat and had tucks in it but by basting first, I got them all to sit beautifully with no errors! Yay!

The trickiest part was probably attaching the collar and facing. This is where you need to be super accurate and ensure all your notches match up perfectly. If the notches match then it won’t be too difficult. This is the part where I had to baste first. It wasn’t too difficult though.

Pona 9

I really liked the method for attaching the facings to the coat. You basically sew the facing to the bottom edge and then around the neck and front of the coat, which then automatically folds up the bottom hem. As the facing is a few inches shorter than the coat, it makes the bottom edge fold up. Genius! It’s worth spending a bit of time making sure your facing is flat when attaching it. As my material was quite heavy, it was difficult to lay the whole thing flat whilst pinning. One side attached perfectly, but the other side I had to unpick and resew. Also a good blast of steam helped it lie flat too!

As this pattern isn’t lined and the sleeve is one piece, rather than a 2 piece sleeve and it has no fasteners, I would say it’s suitable for a confident beginner. I enjoyed making it and I am very happen with the finished item. My only issue is the size being far too big. It’s definitely a winter jacket, but with it being unlined, it’s not warm enough for really cold weather. I may make a linen version for spring/summer at a later date. If I do, I will definitely size down!

pona 1Pona 8Pona 7Pona 3Pona 2Pona 4Pona 5Pona 6

2 thoughts on “Pona Jacket – Helen’s Closet

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