Francoise take 2

Hi everyone, I’ve finally had chance to get back to my sewing machine as it’s the easter break! I love holidays!! *Happy dance*

What’s even more exciting is I’ve finally completed Francoise annnnnddd it wasn’t a complete disaster! High five to me! As you may know, I attempted to make a version of Tilly and the Button’s Francoise dress last year but the fabric I chose wasn’t appropriate. It was a knit fabric and the pattern is designed for woven fabrics.

francoise 2 1

But what with 2015 being a new year, new start and me wanting to build up my spring/summer wardrobe, I decided to give it another shot. I’m very glad I did! I used a gorgeous floral stretch cotton. It was a bit pricey at about £12 a metre but it’s quite soft and I love the print. Stretch cotton was a good choice as it gives the dress a bit of ease. I made the sleeveless version, so probably could’ve got away without stretch, but if I had added sleeve, the stretch would be vital!

francoise 2 2

Front pieces sewn together

Originally I was planning on including the sleeves but I thought the print was too busy once I started cutting it out. I also ummed and ahhed over whether to add the collar. In the end I opted for simplicity!

francoise 2 3

The pattern is very easy to make. I made a toile of the sleeved version last year when I first got the pattern. That was a size 4 but was slightly too tight so I cut a size 5 of this. It’s a bit big so maybe I should’ve cut a size 4 but used a smaller seam allowance. It doesn’t fit too badly, just could do with a few tweaks here and there. Really need to learn to fit things properly.

I felt that my accuracy with cutting and sewing is approving. My pieces and seams matched up so much better. In fact, all the seams that needed to match were either matching or only about a mm out. All my notches and everything matched! Yay me! So proud.

francoise 2 4

Armhole binding

There were a couple of tricky parts, mainly the armhole binding and the zip! I’d never used armhole binding before so made a real effort to measure it accurately and press the fold correctly. It wasn’t too bad, just I have a few tucks in the lower armhole seam, which makes the dress look big.

francoise 2 5 zip

The zip

I attempted an invisible zip without an invisible zip foot for the second time. This time was definitely better! Whilst still not perfect, it was much more invisible and even. The only real errors were made when it came to sewing around the puller at the bottom of the zip!

The only other ‘mistake’ is one side of the facing didn’t meet the edge of the dress so wasn’t included in the seam allowance. This meant that I couldn’t fold it over the zip tape, stitch it then turn it through. Instead, I just sewed it flat over the zip tape so I have the top of the zip tape sticking out at the back! Grrrr! The other side looks good though!

Mistakes

  • Tucks in underarm binding seam
  • Bottom of zip sewing isn’t very neat (or accurate)
  • Top of zip is sticking out due to facing not matching correctly
  • Dress is slightly too big

Successes

  • Generally more accurate cutting and sewing
  • Darts sewn well
  • Invisible zip is quite invisible (until the bottom) and works!
francoise 2 finished

Completed

Overall I’m pleased with the dress and plan on wearing it lots over the summer! Next step… pattern matching!

Have you made Francoise? What should I make next?

3 thoughts on “Francoise take 2

  1. luckybearnorfolk says:

    Hey, I love it! Great fabric – hope you really enjoy wearing it. I have the Francoise pattern and hope to make it soon. I have some lush but crazy fabric that my mother in law brought me back from California that is crying out for a sixties-stylee shift!
    Suggestions for you? Have you made Coco? I love it and have made 2 which I wear loads and loads and always get compliments! Ponte de Roma, which I used last time, is a total dream to sew!
    Happy sewing! x

    Like

  2. emilysadventuress says:

    Thanks for the suggestion. I haven’t made a coco yet but I’ve been eyeing it up. I’m a bit scared of knit fabrics though as I haven’t got an overlocker and attempted to make a francoise before out of ponte de roma which is still unfinished! I really should give it another go! Can’t wait to see your Francoise! xx

    Like

  3. Hayley Margaret says:

    This is awesome! I haven’t tried a dress yet, but I have the walkaway dress they made on sewing bee, just sitting begging for me to be brave and give it a try. Well done with your Francoise, I’m sure it’ll look lovely when the sun kicks in! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

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